In late September of 2003 I decided to go on a trip to Ireland with a stopover in Iceland. Having looked forward to going to Ireland for a long time due to my many cheery and musically talented Irish friends, I was somewhat disappointed to find that if it could go wrong it did. So, sick and tired and disappointed, I sat down in an internet cafe in Dublin to send an email update to a few people. Many people seemed to enjoy it… so I’m posting it here.
September 23, 2003
Note: I did some odd gyrations to get my email list posted on a central website and it sometimes doesn’t load properly into these internet cafe computers… so if you get this twice, just ignore me twice as much!
Hi all,
I’m sitting in an internet cafe in Dublin. This may be a regrettable turn of events for all of you insofar as it gives me a venue to vent… in your collective direction!
I like Ireland. Especially the form of Ireland experienced in an Irish pub in Manhattan. I’m far less enthused about Ireland itself at the moment.
My trip began in Iceland. That turned out quite well. Oddly (or perhaps appropriately), I spent a fair amount of time in a pub there called the ‘Dubliner’ as it was the only place with live music in the early part of the week. As it happened, the singer was good but had been singing every day for two weeks and was beginning to have throat problems. Having initially been generous enough to allow me a song or two, both he and the bar management invited me back both to add a song or two and to offer a reprieve to the main singer. Skipping the steps in between, I ended up taking over the gig entirely for the next two nights. For those of you who haven’t been to NYC for a jam of late, I’ve managed to put quite a repertoire together over the years, so this worked out quite well.
There is a well promulgated myth among people outside of Iceland that Iceland is teeming with young, attractive, substantially available women. While I will explain this momentarily, I am now thinking of writing a book entitled one of the following:
• The female grass is always greener…
• Women everywhere are stunning in !
• In [city X] they love you if you are [canadian / American]
• Modern Myths and other tales of attractive International women
Recently a friend (Spencer) returned from Eastern Europe with similar but well supported tales of these mythical creatures. It is my educated opinion that Spencer clearly was suffering either from delusion or had first-hand experience with the “George Effect”. You may have seen the Seinfeld episode where George stumbles into the secret “international model parties” held in odd places. Once in the loop, George continuously gets invited to these ever-changing locations that mere mortals are not supposed to know about.
It is my theory that such situations do in fact exist. However, unlike Spencer, I have not had an opportunity to experience the rarified air of such a location and am unlikely to until I also manage to locate both El Durado and Atlantis.
Without a doubt, I really enjoyed what little I saw of Iceland. The people were friendly and the standards where quite decent. However, finding the mythical herd of Icelandic sirens proved as likely as finding a bikini-clad three headed bisexual leprechaun in Lithuania. It is my theory that the mythical women in question do exist but recently were on a trip to Eastern Europe which explains why Spencer had such a good time there.
If my initial findings in Ireland hold up over a longer period of scrutiny, I expect to be able to prove that the beautiful people from Iceland made a short stop in Dublin on their way to Eastern Europe and encouraged all the local pretty women to go with them into the heart of Croatia. Spencer’s timing could not have been any better apparently.
It would seem that Ireland has an active import trade with other countries. Clearly there is a heavy trade with England where the locals in Dublin have imported the English predisposition towards incredibly bad teeth, no makeup, and heavy smoking. Reaching further, Ireland has willingly or otherwise imported one of America’s worst contributions to the fashion world… the IBBO, or “inappropriate belly baring outfit”.
While I applaud the complete rejection of size zero stereotypes as promoted in women’s magazines, and I applaud the devil-may-care and I-will-define-myself attitudes represented by these body-image-unconscious types, there really does need to be a limit. I have happily spared the world from seeing the really grotesque comb-over I might well be able to grow were I clueless. Further, the world clearly would shudder were I to wear Speedo swimming trunks. Once again I have spared the world this fate.
Along this line, I would encourage a small test for those women using belly or belly-button baring outfits. If one has the ability to completely lose a television or other remote in the folds of your tummy for several days without even noticing, this should be a fair indication that baring your belly is not a good thing.
I may have to wear Speedos for a day just to drive the point home among the unaware.
The shudder that went through you all at that thought likely registered on a Richter scale measuring device near you.
Now I ask you… where is the outrage? In times passed, large groups of anti-fur activists took to the streets in cities around the world. Wherever they found someone wearing fur, they would rush up and spray them with red paint to prevent that person from wearing the fur again.
We need anti-IBBO activists. I’m thinking that groups of people could run up and spray on “instant T-shirt mix”, thus covering the inappropriate parts of the IBBO.
It’s just a thought.
Anyway, back to Iceland. So on my last day there I played guitar and sang from 10pm until 2am. Then some of the locals took me on a tour of a bunch of other places where I met an unending array of local musicians, all with names I have no hope of pronouncing or spelling.
I left directly from the local establishments to the airport and made my plane to Dublin (via London) with moments to spare.
Any guesses whether my luggage made it?
Really. Go ahead. Guess.
I was up for about 24 hours by the time I arrived in Dublin, having put out huge energy in the prior day, and then arriving to find my luggage accumulating mileage points elsewhere in the planet. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if it stumbled into the secret Icelandic-Irish-Eastern-European-International-Model summit that Spencer was attending.
No worries. If you know me at all, you’d know that no matter how careful I am, how well I label things, or what extra steps I take, either the flight will be cancelled or the luggage will be lost. It’s one of the universal constants, like the speed of light. Einstein or Maxwell may have even stumbled on to this constant in their theorizing. My most creative success in this regard was in fact during my final departure from Cincinnati, where I invented an entirely new way to delay a departure, this time by a full two days. You all saw it as the blackout in the eastern U.S. and Canada. That was just me trying to get home and fate running out of new ways to delay me. On the plus side, I did manage to miss the sweltering heat and the complete inability to get from the airport in NYC to my apartment that would have been my fate had I arrived in time for the blackout.
In any case, I used the time to find a hotel.
Not.
The ‘All Ireland Final’ of some kind of ancient hit-ball-with-stick sport was going on. There were no B&B’s or Hotels to be had anywhere in Dublin. To be fair, this may explain why the attractive women could not have their conference here and had to head to Eastern Europe.
I tried to call a couple of local and international 1-800 types of numbers to get help… except they don’t work from payphones in the UK or Ireland… only from private lines. Don’t ask.
So exhausted and luggage-less, I rented a car. That seemed to go OK. More on this later. Don’t hold you breath. Or actually, when you hear the story, perhaps holding your breath may be the best course of action.
I then proceeded to wait for my luggage at the airport because I had no hotel room for the airline to send it to.
The next plane came in. The computer showed the luggage to have been on the plane. But as the last bit of luggage rolled off the plane, I noticed that my luggage was once again busy not being there.
The local customer service representatives would have furrowed their brows in consternation if they understood such terms. Since they did not, they were simply baffled. It turns out that my luggage was taking a break on a pallet somewhere in the no-man’s land of the Dublin airport.
Fast forwarding a bit, I finally got my luggage. Nearly falling-down sick and very tired, I found my rental car, packed up and left. Now, as a non-European driver, it takes a great deal of concentration to drive a standard with your left hand while driving on the right side of the road while navigating poorly marked round-abouts (traffic circles). I’ll spare you the details. Three or more hours later I wound up through and then out of Dublin by about 100 miles before finding a hotel. I stopped several times looking for places. Each time another mythical goal seemed just outside my reach… the available room. “Aye then, just go up McCoy and out on the N4 for 15 minutes and get off at Shady Acres and they have one there… really”.
Not a word of a lie, I left one particularly nice but full B&B and attempted to follow the directions given to the next place. Taking one wrong turn, I wound up at the same place about 15 minutes later. By a stroke of luck (fate blinked apparently), someone cancelled moments after I left 15 minutes earlier.
They let me in. Yay.
To suspend the rant momentarily, it was very nice. Clean, big, quaint, all the amenities, and a great breakfast. By this time however, I was brutally sick. At first you might think this is simply because I push myself farther than I should or am simply sickly. But no… complicating the search for a hotel was the car I rented (notice the not-so-subtle foreshadowing earlier in this email).
The car apparently decided I was underexposed to cigarette smoke and took it upon itself to rectify the situation. There was a HUGE hole or break in the exhaust train, likely right near the engine. This was not immediately apparent. Initially, I thought I was sucking tailpipe tokes from from the belching cars in front of me. As I started to get dizzy (or at least, dizzier than normal), I decided to shut off the A/C and vents. That didn’t work. Then, as it was now dusk, I noticed that oncoming headlights and the setting sun were blinding me… there was a film of something oily on the INSIDE of the windshield. From exhaust.
I drove the rest of the way with windows down. I consider it “experiencing Irish country air at high speed”.
So when I finally did get to the elusive “available room”, the only thing I could do was get in a hot tub and work to decongest myself. I’m almost certain that entire vacations could be skipped and substituted with a hot bath. Why I chose to travel when I could have done that at home I’ll never know. For completely different reasons I would recommend this course of action to the French in general, but I digress.
The people at the rental car place were duly apologetic and credited my card for the time testing their experimental exhaust inhalation system.
I was able to get a B&B location in the city this time as the sport event had finished and people were heading out of the city.
This was fine also. Initially.
Then it turned out that I was the only person staying there who was:
A) a non-smoker
B) alive
Apparently, the large majority of the other patrons, while certainly pleasant on the surface, had already died. They were stepping back from the crypt into the world of the living just long enough to blow smoke into my room at night and try to take me with them. In fact, I’m not so sure that one of them didn’t fix the exhaust on my car to hasten the process.
Truthfully, since I missed the “model summit” happening in Eastern Europe, I might as well have gone with them. I probably would have but I couldn’t do so without first sending off a couple of post cards and perhaps annoying all of you with this letter.
With all that said, particularly having cleared my senses with a good solid rant, I really do like Dublin. Unlike Seattle, where the best part of the city is the exit gate at the airport, there are some redeeming things here. For example I like Irish accents. Happily, a lot of the Irish in Ireland have an Irish accent. Who knew?
My salvation has been my new iPod. I bought this amazing little MP3 player just before leaving NYC (after leaving a prior MP3 player on the last delayed plane from Cinci). I burned a bunch of CDs I purchased and copied over many more tunes downloaded from the internet. I know it’s bad of me, but everyone needs to be a bit subversive somewhere in their life. For me it’s the thrill of taking money out of the mouths of starving artists like Madonna and Elton. In Elton’s case, I think I was just taking money from his hairpiece maintenance budget. Once again I digress.
In any case, the iPod has been amazing. Until it ran out of power. I finally found a voltage converter (just before coming in here to embark on a path of wanton ranting).
OK. Really… I do like Ireland. I’m hoping to get a bit more sleep, get well, and then find new ways to get myself really partied up and run down over the next couple of days! I have to do it quick because there are no available hotel rooms in the city for the weekend. I’m heading south to meet with a friend (yes, some do admit to knowing me). Then I’m thinking about Barcelona for a bit where I know another guitar player is vacationing.
Hope everyone is doing well!
Regards,
Travel-Al